If you have fine or thin hair, you might be thinking about what haircuts are best suited to your hair type. Ahead, you’ll find the five haircuts to steer clear of as well as the five winning haircuts that will leave fine and thin hair looking its best. Get ready to book in with your salon.

The 5 Worst Haircuts for Fine Hair

1. Too Many Choppy Layers

Haircuts with lots of choppy layers are best avoided if you have finer hair. “Avoid haircuts such as the coupe sauvage,” says Blake. “Fine hair just doesn’t have enough oomph in it to hold this shattered shape.”

2. The Rachel

Even though ’90s-inspired haircuts are having a moment, if you have fine hair, Blake recommends avoiding haircuts like “the Rachel,” which tend to have flicky layers through the lengths of the hair. “Fine hair just can’t flick at the ends as easily, and so this haircut will just looked wilted,” he says.

3. Long Hair With Short Layers

Long hair with too many short layers is best avoided, says Blake. Fine hair can tend to break easily, so longer lengths will expose breakage more easily, and too many layers can make finer hair look flat or limp.

4. Undercut Haircuts

Undercut hairstyles (where longer hair sits over a short or clipped portion of the hair) are also best avoided. “If you have thin or fine hair, getting rid of a large part of it doesn’t leave you enough to spread around the entire head,” says Blake.

5. Long Haircuts

If you have thin hair, you’ll want to avoid growing it too long. Your hair type may be more prone to breakage or thinning, which can look wispy on a backdrop of long hair. “This can make your hair look unkempt,” says Blake.

The 5 Best Haircuts for Fine Hair

1. The Classic Bob

“A classic bob haircut  is a great way to make your hair look thicker, as it keeps your ends looking thick and gives the hair that swishable swing,” says Blake. Bonus points for opting for a one-length bob with a blunt finish, which will keep hair healthy and also enhance the illusion of fullness in your lengths.

2. The Pixie

Blake rates a pixie haircut for fine hair types. “Choose a pixie haircut with weight around the sides,” he says. “This technique builds weight and gives the illusion of thickness. Plus, hair can be plumped up, slicked back or given a dramatic quiff,” he says, making it a great option if you want to go shorter and still wear your hair in lots of different ways.

3. Face-Framing Short Haircuts

Shorter cuts and face-framing layers are a flattering choice for fine hair. “Keeping softness around the face and adding shorter layers around the crown creates the illusion of much thicker hair,” says Blake.

4. Secret Layers

Some tactically placed layers can really enhance the shape of your bob to achieve more volume. “With clever cutting and what I call secret layers (hidden weaved layers on the top of the head), this is a great haircut to disguise fine hair and to add even more texture to the hair with heated stylers,” says Blake.

5. The Firefly

A short, asymmetrical cut like the firefly haircut can add shape and volume to fine hair. This look was often worn by Princess Diana and creates a lot of volume and shape. “A modern variation of a firefly is a great option for fine hair,” says Blake. “This classic asymmetrical haircut builds weight around the curvature of the head, creating much needed bulk in the hair.”